My encaustic artworks are made with beeswax, damar resin (a natural tree sap that acts as a hardening agent), and collage elements. I create in layers, fusing each layer with heat.
Encaustic art has a long history, dating back to the 5th Century B.C. The word encaustic means to burn in, which refers to the process of fusing the elements together. Beeswax is impervious to moisture, it will not deteriorate, it will not yellow or darken. Encaustic works do not have to be varnished or protected by glass.
How to care for your encaustic artwork:
Treat an encaustic artwork as you would any fine art. Use care hanging, transporting or storing the art piece.
Consistent Temperature - Hang and store at normal room temperatures. Avoid freezing and extremely hot temperatures; wax will melt at 150°F / 65°C.
Avoid Direct Sunlight - Keep all artwork out of direct sunlight.
Transporting Artwork - When packing encaustic art for transportation, cover the face of the piece with wax paper. Do not use bubble wrap directly on the front of the piece as it may leave an imprint on the surface. For shipping, build a box the right size for the piece.
Framing - Encaustic does not need to be protected by glass. A floater frame is an attractive option that also protects the edges of the artwork from scratches, dents and chips. Works on paper may be framed under glass; ensure the glass is not in contact with the artwork.
Curing - During the first 6-12 months, as the wax cures, an encaustic artwork may develop bloom. Bloom is a naturally occurring hazy white residue. It may also occur if the artwork is exposed to cold. Bloom can easily be removed by buffing the surface of the piece. Encaustic artwork can be buffed to a high gloss using a soft, lint-free cloth or pantyhose. If the original sheen has become dull over time, it can be brought back by repeating the buffing process. Once an encaustic piece has fully cured and hardened, it will repel dust.
Learn more about encaustic at the allthingsencaustic.com blog.